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Business & Tech

Tallulah Brunch Falls Short of the Hype

New brunch menu at Birmingham wine bistro leaves something to be desired.

The food buzz around town this week has been all about the newest brunch location, Tallulah. 

With a downtown vibe, modern designs and an extensive wine and spirits list, Tallulah opened earlier this year to a dinner-only crowd. On Sunday, Tallulah opened its doors for brunch and Birmingham foodies were out to explore.

The atmosphere was promising Sunday morning: a live music trio, wooden tables and tasteful centerpieces. The seasonal theme paired with the simple, modern and elegant design seemed like a harbinger of good food. 

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Another good sign was the menu. There were a handful of basic brunch options along with a few lunch items as well. All the essentials were there: french toast, seafood eggs benedict, and eggs with sausage, bacon and potato hash. Because it was my first time, I decided to go classic and try what it is known for, ordering the Tallulah Benedict and the Artisan Cheese plate, with a side of Fingerling Hash, a dry cappuccino and the Tallulah Coffee. 

The descriptions were promising, with the benedict appearing to be a fresh take on a classic dish, featuring avocado, poached eggs and aged cheddar. I was particularly excited about the cheese plate; Tallulah is known for its cheese selection, and the menu said it would include cheese from Midnight Moon — one of my favorite goat cheese producers.

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Despite all this, I was disappointed to wait 10 minutes just to receive our coffees,  then wait another 25 minutes to receive our entrees.  The Tallulah Benedict had promised aged cheddar, but tasted like normal, shredded cheddar. Even the appearance was several shades lighter than the deep orange of a good aged cheddar. Our waiter said the cook used hollandaise with cheese, but it looked and tasted more like a mornay sauce. The tomatoes were mealy, not fresh as the restaurant boasts, so the saving grace of the plate was the generous portion of avocado and perfectly cooked eggs.

In spite of this, I was excited for the Fingerling Hash. I love potatoes with my brunch and fingerlings are among my favorite. The waiter told me the restaurant gets its potatoes from a local farm, so I was anticipating a unique, local take on breakfast potatoes. However, I received only lukewarm spuds, half of them burnt, with bell peppers and onions mixed in.

The cappuccino looked amazing, with a perfect mound of white foam, a dash of cinnamon and the personal, sweet touch of a rock candy stick stirrer. Unfortunately, it tasted more like a latte, although all restaurants make their cappuccinos differently.

Of course, I thought the cheese would be a saving grace.  The menu claimed the cheese plate would be paired with caramelized pear and toast; instead, it was paired with a poached pear, burnt slices of bread and only four, thin slices of one kind of cheese.  Given Midnight Moon produces a range of goat cheeses, I was disappointed that I paid $14 for a few slices of one cheese, a quarter of a poached pear and a few burnt pieces of bread.  The cheese was good, of course, but not worth what I paid.

I was a bit let down to find the food different from I expected, but the experience wasn't a total flop. The live music and comfortable settings were a treat on a Sunday morning. The berry pie we ordered for dessert was delicious and the drinks — particularly the Tallulah Coffee, which featured Godiva, Baileys, Grand Marnier and whip cream — were great.

The food left a little to be desired, especially with most dishes priced at $10 or more. A fun place for a trendy brunch, to be sure, but I doubt Tallulah will be the go-to brunch destination for families looking for quick drinks and eggs on a Sunday morning.

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